2330 NW Thurman Street
I had high hopes for this neighborhood restaurant, somewhat hidden behind the Northwest branch of the public library. A peek inside on one rainy night last week revealed intimate booths enclosed by shoji-style screens, sushi chefs who looked like they might actually greet you with "
Irrashaimasse!" and-- best of all-- no crowd! (After a trip to nearby matchbox-sized Mio Sushi, this emerged as a priority.)
The menu was surprisingly comprehensive, with appetizers running the gamut from the standard
gyoza to the harder-to-find chicken
kara-age (Bite-sized pieces of deep-fried chicken, usually served with lemon, a popular choice for a salaryman's bento). We ordered both (as well as the
agedashi tofu.) Unfortunately, though tasty, the appetizers had that "TGI Friday's Party Pack" look and feel to them, as if they were purchased in some far-way grocer's freezer section and shipped stateside to be defrosted and served.
Entrees included assorted
don buri,
tonkatsu, and tempura, as well as an exhaustive list of both
nigiri and rolled sushi. Since I order the spicy tuna roll at almost every Japanese restaurant I go to, I feel confident in asessing Umenoki's version as slightly above-average. The size of each piece and degree of spiciness were just right, but still lacked that creamy element that I so admire in Mugi Restaurant's spicy tuna. Umenoki's Tropical Roll was a tasty blend of tuna, mango, and avocado. Mango was a first for me in a sushi roll, and it worked. I think next time, I'll stick with sushi and skip the apps.
Umenoki's clientele seemed to be neighborhood folk, whom the staff greeted as regulars. The exception to this was two college-age young women who sat at the bar and loudly demonstrated their approval of each piece of sushi. "Your yellowtail is sooooo good! It's amazing!"
The waitstaff was smiley and efficient. By the way, the chefs did mutter
"Irrashiamasse" to us as we entered, but it was decidedly lackluster. Rating: ***
Map